There is something a little heartbreaking about seeing a damaged Disney figurine.
These pieces were once carefully chosen, lovingly unboxed, proudly displayed and treasured by somebody. They are no longer in production forever — there are only a limited number of them in the world — so I have never minded buying damaged pieces, especially when the broken parts are still present. If anything, I feel even more drawn to them. They deserve to be cherished, not forgotten.
I genuinely love giving them a second chance.
This particular restoration was Disney Traditions “Live Your Dream” featuring Rapunzel. I bought her fully aware that part of her arm had broken off (poor girl!), but once I started the restoration process, I also discovered some significant cracking in her hair. It turned into a much bigger project than I originally expected — but to be honest, those are often the most satisfying ones.
Step One – Cleaning
The very first thing I do with any figurine restoration is clean it thoroughly and carefully.
My cleaning method is extremely simple:
- Cool water
- Cotton buds
- A microfibre cloth
And that is it.
I never use chemicals or harsh cleaning products on resin figurines. Over time, strong cleaners can damage paint finishes, dull protective coatings, weaken glued areas and even dry out delicate surfaces. These pieces were never designed to withstand abrasive cleaning products, so gentle really is best.
It is also important to clean before repairs are completed because broken figurines are naturally more fragile. The cleaning stage gives you a chance to inspect the piece properly and identify any additional damage. In Rapunzel’s case, this was the moment I spotted the cracking in her hair.
I always start at the base and work upwards. Partly because it makes sense practically — and partly because it feels like bringing the figurine “back to life” bit by bit.
I will admit something slightly strange here too…
I actually enjoy cleaning figurines.
Some people cycle. Some people skydive. I clean Disney figurines.
There is something satisfying about watching years of dust disappear and colours start glowing again. It does make me a little sad sometimes when I see them heavily neglected because once upon a time they would have been taken out of the box brand new and adored. But I am not here to judge — dust happens.
I clean until the cotton buds come back clear, and I never use them sparingly. If a figurine needs twenty cotton buds, then it needs twenty cotton buds! There is no point just pushing dirt around.
I also always use fresh cotton buds for hands and faces.
Do unto others and all that....!
Step Two – The Glue Commitment
Next comes the slightly nerve-wracking part: gluing.
Before I even open the glue, I spend time carefully positioning the broken piece and understanding exactly how it fits back together. Once superglue is involved, you really do need to work quickly.
And naturally, I chose to do this restoration during the hottest day of the year.
Thirty-one degrees in the UK. In May. Honestly!
One thing I never do is apply superglue directly from the tube onto the figurine itself. It is far too easy to squeeze out too much, which causes seepage around the repair and makes the damage far more obvious.
Instead, I squeeze a small amount onto a “palette”.
By palette, I mean the lid of an old takeaway container.
I like to recycle. Plus it gives me an excellent excuse when I need another takeaway.
From there, I apply the glue using either:
- A cocktail stick
- A very small paintbrush
If I need a slightly larger surface area, I blunt the cocktail stick end a little first.
Once I am completely confident about the positioning, I carefully place the piece and hold it steady. Tweezers are incredibly useful for smaller repairs.
Because ripped-off skin attached to your figurine is not the aesthetic we are aiming for.
Step Three – My Secret Weapon
Now comes the part that not everybody does — and honestly, the technique I have probably refined the most over time.
My secret weapon?
Wall filler.
Yes. Actual wall filler.
Used carefully, it is brilliant for tiny gaps, hairline cracks and rough edges around repaired areas. It helps make repairs look much smoother and more natural while also reinforcing weak points.
The filler can be quite thick straight from the tub, so I dilute it slightly with water and mix it using a paintbrush until it becomes easier to work with.
Then, using a very fine paintbrush, I carefully fill any cracks or uneven areas around the repair.
This stuff dries fairly quickly too, so you do need to move with purpose.
But — and this is important — do not go overboard with it. Less is definitely more. Only apply filler where it is genuinely needed.
Once fully dry, I use:
- A coarse paintbrush to dust away excess
- A small file to smooth any unwanted bumps or rough spots
At this point, the repair already starts looking far more refined.
Step Four – Paint Touch-Ups
Once the structure is repaired, the final stage is touching up the paintwork.
For this, I use acrylic paints. Paint pens can also work really well, but they do limit you because you cannot mix custom colours — you are restricted to whatever shades you already own.
Thankfully, Disney Traditions figurines are actually very forgiving when it comes to paint touch-ups because their finish is intentionally rustic and hand-crafted looking.
In fact, I often have to stop myself from making repairs too perfect.
If a repair looks overly flawless and polished, it can actually stand out more because it loses that slightly rustic Jim Shore charm. So I deliberately try to preserve that softer, textured finish.
Colour matching is mostly trial and error. I always recommend:
- Working in a well-lit space (a magnifying glass with light works wonders!)
- Mixing tiny amounts at a time
- Applying paint gradually rather than heavily
Patience matters far more than perfection.
Final Step – Sealing the Repair
Once the paint is completely dry, I finish everything with a small amount of matte varnish applied using a cotton bud.
This helps:
- Seal the repair
- Protect the paint touch-ups
- Reinforce the repaired area
- Maintain that lovely rustic finish
Gloss varnish can sometimes make repairs stand out too much, so matte tends to blend far more naturally with Disney Traditions pieces.
A New Lease of Life
Repaired figurines sadly can no longer really be considered pristine collector pieces, which is a great shame.
But they can still be absolutely beautiful display pieces.
And honestly? They still deserve love.
Many of my repaired figurines end up on what I call my “adoption shelf” — a little collection of pieces that may not be perfect anymore, but still bring me enormous joy.
Because that is why I collect them.
Not because I hope one day they will become somebody’s inheritance.
Not because I expect them to fund my retirement.
I collect them because they make me smile.
They create comfort, nostalgia, warmth and happiness.
And a little break here and there does not take that magic away.
After all…
Who is perfect anyway?
